繼上回把stiffener（thermo plastic or 港寶）放進鞋頭後，現在要開始拉upper
兩釘將鞋頭固定
之後從外腰先開始慢慢把皮都拉到貼楦（拉不夠緊，鞋型就會跑掉變形）
往裡面擦上膠水等20分鐘，加熱re-active後開始固定拉緊，拔掉釘子 
鞋底用機器打粗，增加摩擦力，之後貼底才不會脫膠
裁出鞋底，畫出後面邊緣的形狀磨薄，底貼上去才會比較貼
大底太寬，將多餘部份磨除掉
用軟木將皮與中底間的空隙填滿
鞋底擦上膠水
鞋底烤軟後貼到上楦頭
用機器壓固定成型
貼上大底後的樣子
貼上後跟後，老師在幫我們打釘固定鞋跟
貼上一個莫名其妙的雙面膠當cushion，超級遜的東西
生平第一雙超級醜的手工鞋就這樣出來了，eo4...
上了一整天的pattern cutting（09:30~1630），一直到做到最後一步了才發現我很前面有個地方做錯，幾乎從第二堂課之後的東西都要重做，所以就從學校拿了一大綑紙回家補做。
開紙板真的是一件超複雜的工作，從copy 3D的楦型，轉成2D的紙板，再要想辦法讓2D的紙板能夠有3D的效果，紙板跟紙板的車縫線預留，要用哪種方式車都要在一開使就計畫進去，差個1mm後面就很難好好接下去。
今天畫了一堆紙板做出來一個超級超級基本的鞋面，只有內腰開一刀而已，然後老師就說這堂課就到此為止了，下次見面是一月的事了。wtf... pattern cutting 這麼難，結果只教我們一個最簡單的就結束了...
workshop
binding leather and insole
glue binding to insole, buff the waist part in preparation of lasting
tack the upper onto insole with two tacks at waist on either side
tack toe part onto last with two tacks
also tack upper onto quarter part 
fix the position of linging 
remove tacks which tacked on the upper, tack the lining all around
adhere the lining to last, remove tacks
remove excess bulks
bevel the edge of thermo plastic as stiffener of toe part
heaten the thero plastic and adhere to the lining
remove excess buks
(to be continued...)
從早上九點半坐到下午四點辦，有夠累，不過上課可以聽音樂還滿爽的。
sewing workshop
Lapped seam,
skive underlay, the first row of stitching be placed 1mm from the edge, second row(decoration) 2mm from the first.
Closed seam
grain to grain, stitch 1.5mm from the edge, open out then remove excess bulk, tape nylon tape
Dog ear seam
combine closed sean and lapped seam
Silked seam
same as closed seam, place a row 1mm on either side of original seam
Butted seam
join two pieces of leather, put them through Zig-Zag maching
stitch a back strap for reinforcement
Topline bagging
skive upper 10mm in preparation of folding, grain to grain, stitch 1mm from the edge, insert topline tape into the fold, pull the upper/lining inwards the topline, hammered in place
use lining for decoration
French binding
binding tape/leather on grain side, grain to grain(closed seam), insert topline tape on flesh side, pull binding leather inwards topline, stitch a row underneath the binding leather with upper, binding leather and lining
Knock on heel
glue the leather to heel
staple toplift to heel
Luis heel
much more difficult
bevelling outsole
這週末終於遠離倫敦跑去Salisbury看Stonehenge，之後再去巴斯住一晚。巴斯整個城市超古老的，一點新的建築物都沒有，應該算是目前我看過最漂亮的地方了，晚上跟白天都很有特色。
Railway London Waterloo to Salisbury GBP 14.70 (四人同行價)
Salisbury to Stonehenge tour GPB 14.50 (到Sainsbry Station搭)
Railway Salisbury to Bath GBP 6.90 (四人同行價)
Roman Baths Museum GPB 9.50 (Student)
Railway Bath to London Paddington GBP 12.25 (四人同行價)
Backpacker Hostel GBP 17.00
最基本的開銷不到100鎊而已，還滿值得的。
最近在教怎麼做中底
裁中底紙板
黑色部位沖水讓他變軟好壓
用手大致壓出弧度（老師戒指很亮！）
釘槍固定後跟
固定前掌
挖出一個溝槽放鐵心
拔下中底後，在eyelet puncher上打孔
固定鐵心
換自己做
Skelton Board
兩面上膠後放20分鐘，再加熱貼合
把多餘的地方磨乾淨
(續...)
V 10/14 Deadmau5 @ Round house
V 10/16 Shinichi Osawa @ Fabric
10/23 Paul Oakenfold @ Matter
10/23 Judge Jules, Andy Moor, Thrillseekers @ Mos
10/24 Pete Tong Wonderland @ MoS
10/28 Armin Van Buuren, David Guetta, Above and beyond, Gareth Emery @ MoS
10/30 Marco V, Sister Bliss @ MoS
11/06 Plump DJS @Fabric
11/14 Moby @ MoS
11/20 Nick Warren @ MoS
12/04 Fatboy Slim @ Matter
12/31 Calvin Harris, Deadmau5 @ MOS O2
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